The Milling Room, New York

Glass enjoys cosy fine dining at The Milling Room, New York

 

THE Milling Room, on Manhattan’s Upper West Side, has to be one of the loveliest neighbourhood restaurants you could ask for. If I lived in this sophisticated part of town, there’s no doubt that I would be eating at this seasonally-inspired spot several times a week. With a new executive chef in the shape of Phillip Kirschen-Clark, who developed his skills at two New York institutions (Café Cluny and Pegu Club), the restaurant has recently introduced their menu for the warmer months which continues to highlight interesting takes on classic American dishes.

When Glass recently stopped by for dinner, we were treated to a terrific salmon belly crudo with a stunningly vivid melon vinaigrette, a super-sweet burrata with celery salted cucumber, and the freshest halibut that arrived with lobster broth and basil.

The beginning of summer has also prompted the introduction of a novel idea: The Milling Room has just launched its picnic baskets. With the restaurant being located just one avenue away from Central Park, this is a naturally winning initiative. Available from late morning to early afternoon, guests can make up their basket by ordering from the regular lunch menu (we’d choose the sunflower toast and salmon burger), otherwise select the three-course fixed price menu which includes an appetizer, a main, plus one drink. Taking just 30 minutes to prepare, The Milling Room makes having lunch in the park an absolute breeze.

For those who prefer to consumer their meals indoors, The Milling Room serves lunch during the week, and a brunch service has just been launched on Saturdays and Sundays. Dinner is served every night, and there’s also a separate bar at the front for those occasions when just a glass of wine is needed.

During our visit, both the bar and dining room were buzzing. While the bar offers a relaxed tavern ambiance, the central space is the real gem. The restaurant resides within the former lobby of what was once the Endicott Hotel, a smart property that saw its heyday over a hundred years ago, so a strong architectural foundation is evident. Mauricio Zermeño Bessonart, architect and interior designer, has created a beautiful dining room that is skylit, flooding the entire space with natural light.

The original fireplace has thankfully been maintained, and exposed iron pillars are on view. The whole thing is reminiscent of a massive Victorian greenhouse and creates the most wonderful atmosphere. Surely there couldn’t be a nicer way to spend a summer evening indoors?

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